Hawaii Day 1-3 & Some Frame Grabs

Ive been in Hawaii for a few days now with Fox's film guy Ryan Moss and photographer Ricky Lesser. The North Shore hasn't really done its thing yet so we've been looking elsewhere for waves to film and shoot. My first morning here the North Shore was pretty maxed out but there looked like a few surfable ones at gas chambers even tho nobody was out.



Although a little skeptical, I paddled out, broke my leash on my first wave, then took a bunch of waves (way bigger than I would have liked to during my first session) on the head. After body surfing across dry reef and then fulfilling my year long craving for Ted's Bakery, I heard from my JerZ buddy Chris Eves that there were waves on the south shore so we meet up with him and surfed bowls. Nothing epic, but fun and it felt so great to surf in trunks for the first time since the summer months at home.




The next day was much the same, North Shore being too big and the swell still on the rise which made us really start thinking about other options. After hearing word that "everyone" (dusty, jordy, ext.) was going to Honalua bay for the massive swell we was decided to fly over to Maui for the super session and scored it absolutely firing!!!




and yes......."everyone" was there